Because they can breathe directly to the surface of the water, Anabantidaes can survive in water with very low oxygen. In their natural environment, they are often faced with drought, where rivers are reduced to sloughs very poor in oxygen. This ability to breathe atmospheric air directly allows them to survive. However, this same ability, causes they can not meet their oxygen by breathing the only gill, even if plenty of oxygen dissolved in water. So much so, that they shall die drowned if they can not have access to air surface.
The Anabantidaes also have the particularity to build bubble nests in which the eggs are kept until they hatch. In most cases, the male builds the nest. In some cases, the female is also involved in the construction of the nest. During the construction of the nest, the male takes a bit of air to the surface, coated with mucus and spit bubbles that float to the surface. Repeats this process until there are enough bubbles to form a nest. ‘s nest can be 3 to 10 inches (8-26 cm) in diameter and can reach up to 1 inch (2.5 cm) of center thickness. ‘s work is never done male, as the bubbles eventually burst and must be replaced.
Nest building is a clear sign that spawning is near.
The breeding tank: Many breeders have had success using green water, rich in algae. however, a tray clean and plant can be used. A tray 5 to 10 gallons (20-40 liters) enough. It will be naked without substrate (small would be trapped in the gravel). For filtration, several works suggest to use only aeration stone with a very low rate. Personally, I always been more successful with a sponge filter, the tube enhancer dragged to the surface, and having a bend, allowing me to direct water from the filter away from the bubble nest. , it is essential , to have one transparent spacer to separate and protect the female for the male broodstock conditioning, and after spawning. When spawning is completed, it is much easier to isolate the female to capture and place in another tray, rather than hunt around the net with the breeding tank and take the chance that it destroys the bubble nest in his flight.
Broodstock conditioning is performed according to the usual method. Notice that the Betta is rather small carnivorous and live prey are highly recommended. Beef heart is also the case, but do not forget to siphon surplus not consumed.
Generally, Bettas prefer a water temperature of 75 ° F (24 ° C). For reproduction, the temperature will be gradually brought between 80 and 82 ° F (26 and 28 ° C). tray reproduction will cover the more sealing possible, to avoid having too great a difference between the temperature of the water and the air at the surface. This is important for the survival of fry. We’ll talk later.
The Betta prefers freshwater and slightly acid, although it has been successfully replicated in all kinds of water quality.
Adult care: At any time, the males should be isolated from other males, they will fight to the death. Females are more tolerant and can be kept together. Figure below shows an arrangement of the type “apartments “which is used by professional breeders to keep males separate. they do not need large spaces, a simple jug is ample, provided it is clean and the water is changed every 2 days . You can also make a siphon system to perform simultaneous changes in all your water jugs.
I will not deny that it is a lot of work, especially when you fry growing and that all young males must be separated. You may need more than 100 pitchers for all housing. This is the main reason why this species is poorly reproduced by amateurs.
If you have multiple bins community, you can place the adults, because a male per tank and two to three females per aquarium .. However, it should avoid putting males in tanks where there are fish who tend to chew the fins of other fish, such as Tiger Barbs. ago a strong possibility that the beautiful fins of the male do reduce to shreds.
Be careful in choosing the community tank in which to place the Bettas. spite of their apparent nonchalance and slow, they are formidable predators. Allow me to recount experiences that I experienced when I started in the hobby. A I once put a male betta in a community tank containing several Platys, many females were full and ready to give birth. tray was abundantly planted and I used to collect the newborn fry every morning . Normally, I was picking a fortnight each time. So one day, I put a male betta in this tank, telling me that he stroke so slowly that the fry can easily escape. Big mistake! The next morning , I go to my room to feed my fish aquariums and raise the fry. Examining the tray where my Platys and my male Betta, I only saw two male Betta fry and a good bounce to the abdomen. Looking closer I could see what was happening. I saw the male Betta approaching slowly, almost imperceptibly a fry that unsuspecting, to swallow a wink. Let me tell you that I swiftly removed the Betta.
My other mishap occurred when I acquired four female Bettas. Based on my experience with the male Betta Platys and babies, I decided to put females in a tank of 20 gallons (80 liters) containing a fifty young Tilapia mariae (Cichlids) about 1 month old, measuring at least 1 inch (2.5 cm). I thought the fry were too large to run no risk. Another mistake! The next morning, I was horrified at the sight that awaited me. Nearly half of the fry were dead gutted. I saw the female Betta fry enter the belly for their devour the entrails and discard the inert body.
All this to say that you should always be careful when dealing with fish that have a carnivorous diet. debut in your aquarium, you also make mistakes. This is how we learn. This book will be a valuable aid to help you get started on the right foot.
So back to our Bettas. Bettas can begin to spawn, once they have reached the age of three months. When the female is full of eggs, separating the glass can be removed. A female betta full of eggs ready to spawn and is easily recognized by its plump abdomen, obviously, but also by the appearance of dark stripes on its abdomen and a whitish spot at the genital papilla. backup for the female farmers all Anabantidaes types must be absolutely certain that the female is ripe for spawning and willing to embrace the male to relieve his swollen ovaries, before putting in the presence of the male. Males of this family quickly lose patience and become violent if the female refuses their advances. At this stage, the fights that follow may very well mean the death of the female. This will cause you not only the loss of a breeding female, but also the loss of spawning whole. A lay up to 600 eggs can give. It is strongly recommended to help the female breeder if it is too bullied by the male
When the female is ready to spawn, the male makes a wonderful courtship. He goes to the female with his fins deployed to maximum and colors are accentuated. He swims around the female who also makes his parade coquette. The couple runs in the bubble nest and then the male wraps his body around the female. torque switches the belly up and remains in this position for about a minute. The female lays several eggs are immediately fertilized by the male. The male then releases the female seems to be in a catatonic state, to collect eggs and anchor them in the bubble nest. This process is repeated until all the eggs have been laid. This can take up to one (1) hour. At the end of the laying about 600 eggs have been laid.
Depending on the species of Anabantidae, eggs float of themselves to bubble nest, while for other species like Betta eggs sink to the bottom.
After spawning, the male is responsible for the care of the nest and eggs. should immediately remove the female, as the male chase. In nature, there are no problems, because the female can get away, but in the limited space of the breeding tank, it has no place to hide and will eventually be killed by the male. , it is vital to reserve a cache, where it could from the bottom of the aquarium and `ride up to the surface to go look for the air she desperately needs power its survival.
The eggs hatch within 2 days. During this time the male tirelessly maintains the nest and collect the eggs that fall from the nest. Upon hatching when the fry are busy absorb their yolk, the male continues to watch over them and bring back to the nest, fry s ‘away. During this time, he does not eat and it is not advisable to feed him, because he might decide to eat eggs. When the fry have reached the freestyle, you must remove the male
Young people will be fed infusoria for a period of approximately three weeks, after which microworms and newly hatched Artemia can be distributed more infusoria. , it is imperative to change water frequently , as 600 fry in a tank 5-10 gallons (20-40 liters) generate a lot of metabolic waste. Fry is tiny, it is very difficult to siphon water for water changes also without catching fry. The method I use and that works wonders. siphon As you use a piece of tubing to air. place a sleeve made from a piece of sponge filter after the tip from the tray. The other end of the siphon go into a large jug with pickles (the same type that you use to culture infusoria). Placing the right so that when the jug is full, the water level in the latter being the same as the tray . siphon will stop automatically. This method combined with the distribution of the infusoria drip-drop, you can kill two birds with one stone; Distributing the infusoria and make a supply of fresh water at the same time.
It is imperative that the tank is well covered in the third week until the sixth week. should not be any differences in temperature between the water tank and the air above the water. this age, the young begin to develop their bodies mazes. A temperature difference is so deadly. It is at this stage that the inexperienced farmer will suffer the greatest losses .
After this crucial step, the many survivors that you (400-500) grow rapidly. growth is not equal and divide the egg depending on the size of fry to avoid cannibalism. Normally, a range of 400 fingerlings requires at least 4 tanks of 20 gallons (80 liters) to give space to young until they are old enough to be sold (at least in regard to females). When the fry begin their sexual maturation, it is necessary to separate the young males and isolate individually, otherwise they will fight and shred their fins.
At this point, you have several choices to separate young males. You can either place them in trays multiple divisions, specially designed for Bettas. however, these tanks are primarily designed for enthusiasts who want to keep only a few bucks Bettas . to the farmer who has to separate several dozen young males, this arrangement, although very good, because it allows you to install a filtration system to keep the water clean, can be prohibitively expensive because the number of bins required to accommodate all the males.
Another option is to place the young males in many jars that you have accumulated over the months before spawning. jars need not be very great. Jars of jam and pickles are the very case. these pots can be placed on shelves around your room with aquariums. advantage of this option is that these pots will do no cost or very little (especially if you have asked your family and friends to pick them up for you during the last month). Their main disadvantage of this method is the maintenance required to keep safety in these containers. Indeed, having no filtration or aeration, water gets polluted these jars very quickly. To ensure the growth of your fish will not be inhibited by the accumulation of nitrogen compounds in the water, you must clean up all the jars, at least twice a week.
This means that you will have a clean jar containing fresh water and packaged, ready to receive the male Betta. Working above your sink, you take the jar containing the fish dirty and polluted water, you all empty (water and fish) and a dip you put the fish in the clean jar. then you can clean the dirty jar and fill it with fresh water and conditioner and repeat this operation and until all your fish were changed water and placed in a clean jar.
As you can imagine, this requires a lot of time. Though this type of work is not bad in itself.The time you spend could be used to pay other things. This is my third option may interest you. If you’re at all handy with your hands, you could build a “SKYSCRAPER” Betta. This arrangement allows you to make changes simultaneously in all your water bottles as often as you want without getting wet hands. cleaning walls jars that have to be done occasionally ( about once a month). Breeders professionals use this method because it allows a single person spending just one hour a day, raise, feed, clean containers and raise up to 4000 Bettas at a time until they are big enough to sell, and, within three months. Here is the third option.
THE SKYSCRAPER to Bettas:
As I already mentioned in the description of the first option, the use of specially designed bins divided for Bettas would be ideal because it allows the use of a filtration system to maintain the quality of the water in different compartments of the tray. however, the number of bins required to accommodate all your fish would make the cost of this option quite prohibitive. The second option is much more affordable, but it requires that the breeder spends a lot of time maintaining all the jars.
The third option is to combine the best qualities of the previous two options, ie the ability to use a central filtration system connecting each of the jars and realize all economically. To this end, we use square jars transparent plastic. advantages of these jars are their low purchase price, good transparency of their walls, their light weight and resistance in case we escape one on the ground. All these attributes make desirable for this project.
The secret of this option is the use of the plastic tube in the form of an inverted U, each of which connects to a system jars central filtration. The filtration unit will consist of a central tray 20 gallons (80 liters) at the bottom of the first set and serving as a reservoir for collecting wastewater from all the jars. use of the second tank will be able to easily make contributions of fresh water, by regularly changing the waste water by fresh water and preconditioned. This container is then connected to a filter motor, closed type “canister” (or Eheim Fluval), the exhauster will be connected to the upper part of the assembly, to the network of tubes entered U.
The tubes must be made of transparent material so that you can visually check the flow of water is free. The inside diameter of the tube should be at least 1/4 inch. diameter of the tube is what affects the speed with which the water can be changed in your jars. It is important that the tube diameter is small enough to prevent the fish enters and goes to join its neighbor in the jar underneath him.
Each jar has its own cover to prevent fish from jumping out of their container. Each cover is pierced with a hole allowing access to the siphon tube from the jar located above. Only with lids of top row will have two ports. one for the supply pipe fresh water from the filtration plant and a second to allow the distribution of food. distribute the food in the jar you will be driven higher by siphon to jars located below. For “SKYSCRAPER” Bettas to fifteen floors, calculate approximately 20 minutes before food, you have distributed in the top row, last row reaches the bottom.
Each jar is perforated with a hole in its base, so as to leave one end of the U-tube to bring it to the jar below it. This hole will be large enough to allow the provision of a ring sealing (“O-RING”), through which, pass one end of the tube in U. The other end of the U-tube will be cut at an angle of 45 ° , so that the water flow is not stop if this bit is leaning after the wall of the jar.
Finally, what is particularly important is that you practice a small aperture (kerf enough) in the upper part of the curvature of the U-tube This is very important , because if you do not practice this opening there is nothing that would prevent water from siphoning jar completely.This opening serves to regulate the water level in each of the jars. When the water level rises, the U-tube is completely submerged and filled with water, thus creating the bringing water siphon in the lower tray. When the water level is lowered the jar under the opening in the tube, the latter is filled with air and disarms the trap.
Now, what is the assembly of the skyscraper itself, there is nothing complicated. It is important to remember is that each shelf supporting the jars should be placed in well. The width of each shelf is 1/4 to 3/4 of the width of the jars you use. Finally, in order to maintain the stability of the whole, it is important to follow the spacing between each shelf. This spacing should be sufficient to allow flush each jar, which will be supported by both the tablet and enter lightly presses against the top shelf. Figures 189 and 190 show you what it’s like “SKYSCRAPER” to Bettas and how should be embedded jars.
The skyscraper Bettas. Each “apartment” is connected to the next via tubes arrived and out of the water. Due to central filtration system, filtered water will continuously from one apartment to the other. system is so effective that it enables a single person, not devoting one hour per day, raise, feed and keep clean up Bettas 4000 until large enough to be sold, it is to say in within 3 months
How to arrange the jars. Simply tilt the jar is all that is needed to remove one of the “apartments”, either for cleaning or for sale or fish. Food distribution is done automatically. food is placed in jars in the top row. It will be distributed in all the jars with underlying water filtration. Medications can also be distributed in this way.